Saigon to Hanoi...
by
Leslie Heron
Vietnam had been on my list for 10 years! I could easily have
been disappointed after all that time, but I wasn't. Vietnam
was amazing! It is geographically stunning, the people are
genuinely friendly, the food is amazing and the colonial architecture
elegant. It has a complex history with memories and visions
of war everywhere. Now a country at peace, it has been an emerging
travel destination over the past years yet you still feel it
is refreshingly unspoiled. And as I discovered, Vietnam is
so much more then rice fields and conical hats!
My trip began in Saigon and finished 12 days later in Hanoi.
The streets of Saigon were incredible, motorbikes everywhere!
There are 3 million motorbikes on the street at any given time,
imagine the round-abouts! I took my own cyclo tour visiting
the War Museum, City Hall, the Rex Hotel and various other
sights including the famous ones from the book/movie 'The Quiet
American'. Also strolled down Dong Khoi street which was famous
for it brothels and massage parlours and now is a rather chic
area of Saigon with fancy restaurants and shops. The buildings
are all very elegant. More sophisticated shopping can be done
here.
Eating is easy in Saigon as there are outdoor night markets
everywhere, food was wonderful and very inexpensive! Average
dinner costs about $3.00USD. And that includes a large beer!
We spent a day boating on the Mekong. This is well worth a
visit, stopping in at various islands and wandering through
villages. If you can get in a small boat and pole down the
tributaries it is quite beautiful, very lush and very peaceful.
From Saigon we made our way to Hoi An. Once a bustling port
town and now a lovely haven of cobbled stone streets, coloured
lanterns hanging from gorgeous colonial buildings, fishing,
tailors, cafes etc. You can get anything made to measure here.
There are over 300 tailors! But try not to spend your whole
time shopping! Instead just wander the streets, rent a bike
and cycle into the country, it is very flat, rent a boat and
paddle to some of the nearby islands and wander through villages,
visit the early am fish market, watch the school girls bike
to school wearing their immaculate white ao dais. Hoi An is
a treasure, so enjoy!
From Hoi An we drove north to the Marble Mountains and China
Beach. Marble Mountains are definitely worth climbing the 200
steps to the top to get a beautiful view and poke your head
into some temples in caves, quite amazing. From there a quick
stop to see China Beach. That is all it is, a beach, untouched
at the moment. We continued on and went over the Hai Van Pass,
if it wasn't foggy, which it usually is, the view would have
been spectacular.
We arrived in Hue later that day. Hue was the old imperial
city and the ruins of the city are still there. The city is
built on the banks of the Perfume River, so it is worth taking
a boat downstream and watch life go by as well as visit the
Thien Mu Pagoda. If you can, stay in the old part of town right
behind the walls of the imperial city. Rent a bike and cycle
exploring pagodas, markets etc. One of the highlights of my
trip was renting a motorbike and driver and touring through
the countryside for the day. Through villages, rice paddies,
war remnants etc, having the most incredible lunch at a monastery,
visiting another monastery while the monks were chanting, see
joss sticks getting made along the side of the road, driving
by canals with canoes made from pieces of American war planes
etc. It was just a fantastic day and I think, the highlight
for everyone.
From Hue we took the Reunification Express overnight, north
to Hanoi. It was a great 12 hour trip. The train was spotless
and the service was terrific. You may wish to pack your own
cheese and French bread though! After arriving in Hanoi we
took a bus directly to Ha Long Bay, this takes about 3 hours
and we then spent the afternoon cruising the bay and marveling
at the limestone peaks that rise from the waters. There are
hundreds of them. It was a very misty afternoon, not really
warm enough for swimming, although some brave souls took the
plunge! We explored some great caves and then had a sumptuous
seafood feast onboard!
Back to Hanoi the next day along 'dog alley', so named for
the many restaurants along the route serving dog!
Hanoi is lovely. You can easily while away several days here
wandering through the old quarter, strolling tree lined boulevards,
beautiful lakes and faded colonial architecture. You can also
visit Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, war museums etc. There are some
fantastic restaurants here as well. A definite must see were
the water puppets. The troupe does several shows a day and
it is incredible the variety of puppets and the stories or
vignettes they tell.
This rounded up the trip aptly named 'The Spirit of Vietnam'.
I toured with a company called Intrepid that specializes in
small group travel in Southeast Asia. The trip went off without
a hitch. The group was made up of 12 people from 4 countries
and varying ages and travel experiences. But all left with
the same feeling I did. That Vietnam is just a very special
travel experience!
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